Mystical Manang
By Mohan Khadka
If you are mulling over your next vacation, or some days off your onerous routine, a few days of trekking along the trails in Manang, a trans-Himalayan western district, could be quite a wise thing to do.
With its majestic mountains, hills and lakes, the unique local culture, Gompas and the isolated villages, Manang is attracting more and more visitors. Surrounded by 8000 m-plus Annapurna range and the great peaks of Pisang and Chulu, the Manang Valley, which is inhabited by just about 10,000 people, is wild and wonderful.
“Trekking in these heights in of course physically demanding, but the exhaustion does not last long as you come close to the marvels of nature around here,” explains a Kathmandu-based journalist, who is part of familiarisation trip to Manang conducted by Manang Youth Society, “This place needs wider exposure internally and internationally.”
Geographically, the district is divided into three distinct regions: Nyeshang Valley, Gyalsomdo Valley and Nar Phu Valley. The Nyeshang and Gyalsumdo valleys fall on the circuit trekking trail where tourism business has become the main source of income for the local people while the Nar and Phu that were earlier restricted for foreigners are now open for all.
Landing at Humde airport or a five-day walk from Besishahar, Lamjung district, is how most visitors reach Manang and set out for trekking to Upper Pisang from Lower Pisang at 3200 m or Humde at 3300 m.
For a relatively short trek, say, up to 4600 m Kecho Lake, you can start form Humde after landing there by a chartered flight or a scheduled flight from Pokhara. Pisang, which is about three hours walk from Humde, is a renowned place to stop by – with hotels that provide all basic facilities. Beginning early next morning from Pisang, you walk two hours uphill to Gyaru, a hilltop village at 4000 m facing the breathtaking mountain range. Stopping there for tea or lunch the walk continues. Now, passing through relatively easy trail up to Ngawal and then walk some three hours past Munji and Braka villages to reach Manang village (3540 m), which is the main tourist hub of the district.
Most visitors prefer to trek up to Kecho Lake, which is popular for its unspoiled beauty. This is also the main camping area for Yarsagumba pickers. Hordes of collectors and dealers of this high-value natural aphrodisiac could be seen camping around the lake. They set out for higher altitudes in the morning and return to the camp with the day’s collection in the evening.
Milarepa cave, which is a two hours walk from Braka, is another attraction for visitors. Popular belief is that 11th century Tibetan Buddhist hermit meditated in the cave for a long time.
Stopping for a day in Manang or nearly Braka is best for acclimatising for those walking up/down Kecho Lake, or those setting out for a more serious trek crossing Thorang-La-Pass (5416m) to enter Mustang. Gangapurna Lake, Ga Tso glacial lake, Gusang village, Puchan Prha hill, Khangsar village which is the last settlement in Manang, are some other attractions for day trip.
March to mid-June and September-November are the tourist seasons in Manang. Every year majority of the villagers in upper Manang desert their villagess and descend to lowlands, especially Kathmandu, as soon as the winter sets in. Most settlements in upper Manang are covered with snow during winter.
While they grow buckwheat, potato and green vegetables, Manang people depend mostly on imports for foodstuff. Since last few years, Yarsagumba has been a good source of income for the villagers.
Hotels and restaurants in Manang serve almost all familiar dishes ranging from daal-bhat to pizzas, but trying local specials like buckwheat roti, yak meat and seabuckthorn juice will certainly give you a new feel. If you cannot do without feeling tipsy in the cold, windy evenings at the +3500m height there is local booze as well as branded liquors available. Accommodation is good enough at all stations along the trekking route and the cost is surprisingly low, if considered the tough supply conditions.
Manang village is a quite a happening place where over 100 tourists arrive for overnight stay. With the improving conditions in the country after the peace process and increased facilities, tourist arrival in Manang is showing a positive trend. “Business has been good this season because of the favourable atmosphere in the country,” says Tshiring Gurung, owner of Hotel Tilicho in Manang village, adding, “There was no direct impact of Maoist war in the entire Manang district but tourism was in bad shape as a result of the bad national scenario. We had tough time continuing business in the past few years.”
For the could of years, annual tourist arrival in Manang has been approximately 12000 and the latest trend is positive.
Michung Gurung, the first person to establish a hotel in Manang 30 years back, believes tourism will grow in the days ahead. “Visitors will certainly grow if we can spread information about the tourist attractions of Manang,” says he.
Gurung, who also served a the chairman of the District Development Committee of Manang in the first local elections in 2049 B.S, says that road connectivity to some stations will not only make the lives of Mananges better but also contribute to tourism promotion. “However, preserving our unique natural assets and the culture is very necessary,” adds he.
To make it a perfect adventure holiday destination, Manang has it all: good trekking trail, majestic mountains, pristine hills, tranquil lakes, the wild Marsyangdi River, unique local culture and traditional lifestyle. All it needs is better infrastructure and a bit of exposure. nepalnews.com June 02 07
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