Arresting Indra Jatra festival
Written by By Sharmini Wijeyesekera   
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3:30 -The energy level in Basantapur slowly rises as people arrive for the afternoon festivities on day 3 of Indrajatra.  The crowd covers every ledge of the temple steps and packs into all available corners of the square, watching over the still wooden chariots lined up next to the royal palace.  Diplomats and government dignitaries arrive in their cars and enter the royal palace's balcony to observe the crowds.
 
 Hindu Devotees pray and make offerings at a statue of the lord Indra, the god of rain, at Indrachowk, Kathmandu.
 
Crowd waits for the Indra Jatra festivities to begin.
 
Women watching over the god statue at Basantapur Durbar Square before the start of the Indra Jatra festival.
 
The Nepali military band kicks off the ceremony.

4:30 - I am caught in a milieu of press photographers from around the world, young festival volunteers, a group of masked dancers and its entourage, and Nepalis who snuck past the guards.  In this mess of people, it's impossible to see what is going on and only when the crowd begins to cheer do we know that something exciting has just occurred.  In this way, I discover that the masked dancers have arrived. Red haired, blue haired men hurdle their bodies towards one end of the square before suddenly swinging around and turning backwards to run at the photographers trailing them.

 
Traditionally dressed drummers and musicians parade through Durbar Square
 
Foreign ambassadors, diplomats and other dignitaries watching the ceremony from the balcony of the Gaddi Baithak.
 
Masked performers starts to dance as the crowd becomes more excited.
Masked performers starts to dance as the crowd becomes more excited.

Performers wearing Pulukesi (baby elephant statue) dance around the packed Durbar Square.

Performers wearing Pulukesi (baby elephant statue) dance around the packed Durbar Square.

People of the Newar community pulling the 'Pulukesi'

5:30 -The Kumari, the living goddess, is visible for a few moments as she is carried through the square before disappearing into the shadows of her chariot throne.  With a bang, the brass band begins to play a marching tune, the President and the Prime Minister throws coins into the crowd and the chariots begin their long roll around central Kathmandu.

Living Goddess Kumari is raised into the chariot.

The Kumari watches the festival from her seat on the chariot.

People of the Newar community pulling the chariot of living Goddess Kumari.

The chariot is slowly pulled amidst much chaos and confusion.

President Ram Baran Yadav and Prime Minister Madav Kumar Nepal observe Indra Jatra festival from the balcony of Gaddi Baithak.

6:30 -  I've followed the Kumari's chariot down a narrow alley, passing the low ceiling brick buildings, and stumbling over the bumpy ground.  As I push to get a better view I am compacted into the crowd and every slight movement in the crowd forces me to step forward.  People are watching from the carved wooden windows in the buildings and as the chariot moves slowly, they throw water over the crowd to the excitement of the young boys pulling the chariot.  I dodge the water, but when we round a corner and I have a chance to escape into a crowd-free space, I feel like praying for cool rain.

Young boys in traditional costume hold torches during the festival.

The Chariot winds its way through the small streets of Basantapur on its way to Lagantole.

Kumari's chariot continues to move till late in the night.

Masked performers continue dancing into the night.

7:30 - My feet and legs give up the chase, escape the crowd and head home.  But the festival is far from over.  Drummers and dancers still carry on with their performance, the god statues are still being worshiped, and the chariot is still winding its way through the narrow streets under the glow of a nearly full moon.


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As postings are shown online immediately, please be warned of offensive comments
Rosie   |208.68.20.xxx |2009-11-14 04:34:05
Excellent pictures. Wonderful tradition.
rachana  - thanks for the pic   |203.94.144.xxx |2009-10-30 04:46:55
thanks for the pic
i really missed the festival because i was there last year
till late to view the ceremony
now i am far from the country but still these
pic remembered me for the days i left behind
thank u
y  - Yalambar   |174.70.47.xxx |2009-10-25 18:32:01
Yalambar was the first King of Nepal and he was the King of all the
Indo-Mongoloid people.
G.P Singh wrote "By no stretch of imagination, the
Newaris, Gurungs, Magars and Lepchas can be identified with the Kiratas. The
Thadus or Tharus occupying the Tarai region from Nepal and eastern Rohilkhanda
along the frontiers of Oudh to Gorakhpur are supposed to be identical with the
Kiratas. The great bulk of them are now subjects of Nepal Government."(The
Kiratas in Ancient India, 1990)
The Kiratas refers to Indo-Mongoloid in origin
in ancient Hindu texts.
Gyani sova maharjan limbu  - i Luv the   |92.40.66.xxx |2009-10-21 20:57:35
Our culture is our Heritize,so we r rich in cultural heritize in the world.i am
proud that im nepali and newar as well.These pictures remind me s many memorable
days when i was in ktm i really missed these moments here .
trip   |198.231.23.xxx |2009-10-13 19:37:06
wonderful, awesome job!!! I just love our newari culture, i hope it remains
alive forever
Bibhaya Aryal  - good pics   |123.236.219.xxx |2009-10-13 08:45:51
refreshens the old memories..:-)
Manish  - Woooooooowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   |89.211.54.xxx |2009-10-10 06:06:32
As I'm a habitant of kathmandu i've never watched indra jatra closely . thats a
sad thing that i regret . These photos , I found it really nice N this time when
I'll be in Nepal I will not miss this jatra . It seems so interesting . Photos R
just Gr8.
SHAILESH SHAKYA  - king of gods (INDRA) and living goddess(KUMARI)   |195.229.241.xxx |2009-10-08 18:40:15
i am living in UAE,abudhabi.
i have seen world here.
sometime i used to see
moon also.
Earth is beautiful and we have to beautify it.I have grown in newari
culture.
In fact i am buddhist, i love buddhist philosophy which describes
about the man who will grow from his chilhood.
When baby will born,he will be
innocent and lovable. and cute.
in the pace of his life he will face different
situation and obstacles.Sometime he may be trapped in the bad situation but man
has to struggle because life is beautiful.
i am impressed with KUMARI and INDRA
jatra festival.
In fact i am standing in the world and watching human crisis
like killing people and raping people.
i have seen there is compeion between
men.
men are surrounded by storm of hell life.
i have seen lot of religion
like muslim ,christian,which are entirely money matterred.i hate these type
money minded world where there will be no peace,only buddha gave the peace.
w...
shailesh shakya  - king of god and living goddess kumari   |195.229.241.xxx |2009-10-08 17:57:07
i have no idea why kumari is called living goddess and indra is called king of
gods.
if it is so i have some comments.
which is happenning in my life.
in
fact i know buddha the light bearer from the height.
Naya_Nepal  - Newar descendant of Kiratis   |174.70.47.xxx |2009-10-08 06:00:24
Definition of Newar;
"On the basis of varied evidence—literary,
historical, anthropological, linguistic, and that of tradition—we may then
speculate that the kirata, metamorphosed by millennia of miscegenation and
acculturation, form the matrix of the Kathmandu Valley population, which in
contemporary Nepal is designated Newar" (SLUSSER:11).
(Towards an
Acculturation Model of Hindu-Buddhist Relations) ~The Roots of Tantra Edited by
Katherine Anne Harper & Robert L. Brown

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