3:30 -The energy level in Basantapur slowly rises as people arrive for the afternoon festivities on day 3 of Indrajatra. The crowd covers every ledge of the temple steps and packs into all available corners of the square, watching over the still wooden chariots lined up next to the royal palace. Diplomats and government dignitaries arrive in their cars and enter the royal palace's balcony to observe the crowds.  |
| Hindu Devotees pray and make offerings at a statue of the lord Indra, the god of rain, at Indrachowk, Kathmandu. |
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| Crowd waits for the Indra Jatra festivities to begin. |
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| Women watching over the god statue at Basantapur Durbar Square before the start of the Indra Jatra festival. |
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| The Nepali military band kicks off the ceremony. |
4:30 - I am caught in a milieu of press photographers from around the world, young festival volunteers, a group of masked dancers and its entourage, and Nepalis who snuck past the guards. In this mess of people, it's impossible to see what is going on and only when the crowd begins to cheer do we know that something exciting has just occurred. In this way, I discover that the masked dancers have arrived. Red haired, blue haired men hurdle their bodies towards one end of the square before suddenly swinging around and turning backwards to run at the photographers trailing them.
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| Traditionally dressed drummers and musicians parade through Durbar Square |
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| Foreign ambassadors, diplomats and other dignitaries watching the ceremony from the balcony of the Gaddi Baithak. |
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| Masked performers starts to dance as the crowd becomes more excited. |
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| Masked performers starts to dance as the crowd becomes more excited. |
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| Performers wearing Pulukesi (baby elephant statue) dance around the packed Durbar Square. |
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| Performers wearing Pulukesi (baby elephant statue) dance around the packed Durbar Square. |
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| People of the Newar community pulling the 'Pulukesi' |
5:30 -The Kumari, the living goddess, is visible for a few moments as she is carried through the square before disappearing into the shadows of her chariot throne. With a bang, the brass band begins to play a marching tune, the President and the Prime Minister throws coins into the crowd and the chariots begin their long roll around central Kathmandu.
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| Living Goddess Kumari is raised into the chariot. |
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| The Kumari watches the festival from her seat on the chariot. |
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| People of the Newar community pulling the chariot of living Goddess Kumari. |
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| The chariot is slowly pulled amidst much chaos and confusion. |
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| President Ram Baran Yadav and Prime Minister Madav Kumar Nepal observe Indra Jatra festival from the balcony of Gaddi Baithak. |
6:30 - I've followed the Kumari's chariot down a narrow alley, passing the low ceiling brick buildings, and stumbling over the bumpy ground. As I push to get a better view I am compacted into the crowd and every slight movement in the crowd forces me to step forward. People are watching from the carved wooden windows in the buildings and as the chariot moves slowly, they throw water over the crowd to the excitement of the young boys pulling the chariot. I dodge the water, but when we round a corner and I have a chance to escape into a crowd-free space, I feel like praying for cool rain.
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| Young boys in traditional costume hold torches during the festival. |
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| The Chariot winds its way through the small streets of Basantapur on its way to Lagantole. |
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| Kumari's chariot continues to move till late in the night. |
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| Masked performers continue dancing into the night. |
7:30 - My feet and legs give up the chase, escape the crowd and head home. But the festival is far from over. Drummers and dancers still carry on with their performance, the god statues are still being worshiped, and the chariot is still winding its way through the narrow streets under the glow of a nearly full moon.